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OMEGA WATCHES’ HISTORY
A pursuit of accuracy and perfection, started by Louis Brandt as La Generale Watch Co in 1848 in a family-owned villa in the small Swiss village of La Chaux, the company we now know as Omega was only ever dubbed Omega after its second generation of family watchmakers took control in 1879. In 1894, the Brant Brothers introduced the 19-Linge Calibre, an extraordinarily accurate movement that could be easily repaired by any watchmaker.
The Brant Brothers dubbed their feat “Omega,” a name they believed to reflect ultimate triumph, after bringing us breakthrough technology by merging the winding and setting of the clock via the stem and crown. Because of the tremendous popularity and provenance of this movement, the firm was later renamed Omega Watches and Co and shortened to Omega by 1903.
Because of Omega’s lower price point and more availability in the luxury watch category, we can present it as a healthier alternative to Rolex’s products. The primary point of contention in the future will likely favor Rolex’s recent advances into technological breakthroughs and accuracy certifications, rendering Rolex’s current spec sheet inferior.
Omega’s current status is that of a seasoned high-end, pedigree watchmaker with the most extensive offers. It has proven to be unrelentingly innovative and has remained loyal to its beliefs in offering the industry’s best accuracy, precision, and robustness.
Its line continues to push forward into the future of luxury watchmaking, with its own distinct design language, case materials, and intricacies that brands like Rolex are unwilling to question.
Omega’s chronograph products are unsurpassed in diversity and history for anyone with an interest for humankind’s adventures in space flight or any chronograph complication fan.
Following the 1957 release of the Speedmaster, a watch designed initially for racing aficionados, the Speedmaster went on to conquer timekeeping in space as we know it today. With such awards and watchmaking prowess, Omega has been able to release a wide range of chronograph models, each telling a unique tale through its looks, functions, and heritage.
OMEGA SPEEDMASTER PROFESSIONAL MOONWATCH (REF. 310.30.42.50.01.002)
The Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch is undoubtedly the most influential and talked-about timepiece ever created. This watch was part of the most incredible adventure in human history—the journey to the Moon and back—and was the only timepiece certified by NASA for all manned space flights and extravehicular activity since 1965.
It has a striking similarity to its forefathers and introduction models from 1963 to 1969. This is a tremendous monument to the model’s longevity as a timeless design language. However, due to its extensive heritage, this model’s continuing development has resulted in the loss of some of its beloved vintage cues.
The Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch is undoubtedly the most influential and talked-about timepiece ever created. This watch was part of the most incredible adventure in human history—the journey to the Moon and back—and was the only timepiece certified by NASA for all manned space flights and extravehicular activity since 1965.
It has a striking similarity to its forefathers and introduction models from 1963 to 1969. This is a tremendous monument to the model’s longevity as a timeless design language. However, due to its extensive heritage, this model’s continuing development has resulted in the loss of some of its beloved vintage cues.
Like previous models, it is offered with a Hesalite crystal or a sapphire crystal with a sapphire caseback. The Hesalite models are equipped with a nylon fabric strap ($6,300) or a thoroughly brushed stainless steel bracelet ($6,600). The sapphire models either come with a leather strap ($7,200) or with a brushed and polished stainless steel bracelet ($7,600).
OMEGA SPEEDMASTER CALIBRE 321(REF. 311.30.40.30.01.001)
The Speedmaster Caliber-321, often known as the “Ed White Speedmaster,” is a 2019 re-issue of the third generation Speedmaster, which was worn by Ed White during America’s first spacewalk in 1965. This model reintroduces the renowned Caliber-321, which was an integral part of the Speedmaster’s early history.
The legendary Calibre-321, inspired by the amazing Lemania-2310, was the first movement licensed by NASA for all manned space missions and extravehicular activities in 1965. It later powered all Speedmaster watches used on Apollo missions, including the six moon landings.
Omega makes the Calibre-321 separately from all of its other calibers, excluding the tourbillions. Omega’s master watchmakers put it together in a dedicated Atelier, with each caliber constructed and regulated by the same individual utilizing a two-step assembly procedure.
Because of these manufacturing features, the Calibre-321 has a very limited production run. Its retail price of $14,600 is comparable to that of a stainless steel Rolex Daytona. Its 39.7mm case with no crown guard provides a more elegant wearing experience than the Professional Speedmaster.
It has a ceramic bezel, a sapphire crystal with a laser-etched Omega logo, a galvanized dial, and a renowned and visually stunning Sedna Gold plated movement. This is a limited edition Speedmaster for the price of a standard Daytona.
OMEGA SPEEDMASTER DARK SIDE OF THE MOON (REF. 311.92.44.51.01.003)
This year marks the tenth anniversary of the amazing Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon, which was first introduced at Baselworld in 2013. The first official all-black Speedmaster is a progressive model of the Speedmaster Co-Axial Calibre-9300 Chronograph, which was released in 2011.
A non-Professional model for individuals who appreciate the original’s NASA pedigree, cult reputation, and design but need the practicalities of a date window, timezone function, and 60-hour power-reserve automatic movement.
It uses a dual register sub-dial configuration rather than the Professional’s triple, retaining the same functionalities while providing a streamlined appearance. The 44.25mm casing of the Dark Side of the Moon is manufactured from a single block of zirconium oxide ceramic, as are the dial, pushers, and pin buckle. Like its steel counterpart, the ceramic case has satin-brushed and polished facets.
Due to its ceramic construction, calfskin/textile strap, and 49.7mm lug-to-lug distance, it is a rather light and comfortable watch despite its greater size and thickness of 16.2mm. It was originally priced at $12,000, roughly double the professional model, but many collectors valued it for its wholly unique innovation within the Speedmaster tradition.
OMEGA SPEEDMASTER SKYWALKER X-33 (REF. 318.90.45.79.01.001)
With the release of the X-33, Omega expanded its timekeeping capabilities in response to a call to the twenty-first century and advancements in quartz and digital technologies. The 2019 Speedmaster Skywalker X-33, once presented as “the Mars watch,” is still in use today in its third incarnation.
The European Space Agency developed, tested, and qualified it, and it is the preferred choice for NASA Astronauts and Cosmonauts for onboard activities on the International Space Station. The Speedmaster Skywalker X33, crafted in Grade-2 Titanium with a ceramic bezel inlay, is a full-fledged industrial design that ushers the Moonwatch into the modern day.
It has an analog dial with LCD windows and a wide case size of 45mm for ease readability and legibility. The X-33 contains three separate time zones, a chronograph, a timer, a Mission Elapsed Timer, a Phase Elapsed Timer, three configurable alarms (all of which are loud enough to be heard), and a perpetual calendar.
In terms of cost, it has a retail price of around $5,750, but as of writing this piece, it was significantly less in the secondary market. The X-33 is an extraordinary example of a non-mechanical, purpose-derived tool watch designed for the needs of modern-day astronauts, with a slew of functionality that can even be converted for use on Earth.
OMEGA SEAMASTER DIVER 300M (REF. 210.30.42.20.03.001)
The Seamaster Diver 300M is commonly referred to as “the Bond Seamaster” by aficionados. Omega took command of its narrative prowess on the big screen, demonstrating to the world that it was within its ethos to create a luxury tool watch capable of living up to the style and technical requirements of the world’s greatest fictional spy.
The latest generation of the Seamaster Diver 300M, launched in 2018, marking its own 25th anniversary, is now a Co-Axial Master Chronometer employing the Calibre-8800, its most significant change visible through the display case rear.
This type is now available in 5 steel varieties, including the 2022 ‘Seaweed’ Green model. Omega has substantially stretched its capabilities with ceramic through experimenting in the current period.
The updated ceramic bezel has white enamel inlays, the ceramic dial is laser etched with the beloved wave pattern, the skeletonized hands have been updated, the now color-matched date wheel has been moved to 6 o’clock giving more symmetry to the dial, the case size has increased to 42mm making it more legible, the iconic turned lugs remain, and an updated cone-shaped helium escape valve is included.
It is technically and qualitatively one of the most advanced diving watches under $10,000, costing $5,300 on a rubber strap and $5,600 with a steel bracelet.
OMEGA SEAMASTER PLANET OCEAN 600M (REF.215.30.44.21.01.002)
With a stainless steel case diameter of 43.5mm and a thickness of 16.1mm, the Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M is a beefed-up version of the traditional Seamaster diver 300M, delivering twice the depth rating (600m). It pushes the envelope with a heritage-inspired design while being contemporary.
The use of humorous 70s hues is unique to it, with four color options available in steel, exhibiting extensive or controlled use of orange accents in combination with the primary color. This model has a black polished ceramic dial with orange Arabic numerals and a date window at 3 o’clock.
For the first time, its black ceramic bezel has a rubberized inlay on the first 15 minutes of the diving scale; the rest is filled with Omega’s Liquidmetal. When the third-generation Planet Ocean 600m was released in 2016, it was one of the first models to include the incredible Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre-8800 movement.
This demonstrated Omega’s commitment to pushing the boundaries of luxury sports utility and innovation with this model, which has since become the Planet Ocean’s mission statement. It costs $6,700 for a bracelet and $6,450 for a rubber strap.
OMEGA SEAMASTER DIVER 300M “NO TIME TO DIE” (REF. 210.90.42.20.01.001)
Omega’s search of the ultimate Bond watch resulted in the release of the Seamaster Diver 300M No Time To Die Special Edition in 2020. Designed with input from Daniel Craig, who plays James Bond in the 2021 film No Time To Die.
The Seamaster No Time To Die boasts a 42mm case and bracelet fashioned in lightweight Grade-2 titanium, making it lighter and tougher for Bond on his action-packed missions, much like a stripped-down 911 GT3 RS made for blitzing the Nurburgring.
The date complication is removed, giving it a serious tool watch design, and the case back is replaced with one engraved with the 007 and broad-arrow symbol, making it smaller. Less is more in this case.
The dial also features a large arrow symbol to emphasize its military character. The dial is rich tropical brown with faux caramel patina on the hour markers and hands. The watch is paired with a matching lumed anodized aluminum bezel that is designed to age and wear beautifully over time.
It also has a domed sapphire and a seductive tapering milanese titanium bracelet with a deployant clasp. The entire watch is vintage-inspired but individually and tastefully incorporated. It costs $9,500 for a bracelet and $8,400 for a Bond-style nato.
OMEGA SEAMASTER PLANET OCEAN 6000M (REF. 215.30.46.21.03.001)
Water resistance is crucial and valued in the watchmaking industry, particularly in the sports watch section. Naturally, businesses like Rolex and Omega have constantly innovated to expand and improve their product offerings. The Ultradeep is currently at the absolute top of the food chain, having beaten Rolex to the bottom of the Mariana Trench, the deepest point in the ocean, by a few meters in 2019 as part of a demanding voyage of five deepest dives.
This was accomplished through Omega’s use of Liquid Metal technology into the crystal, which can withstand 22 tons of direct pressure. The Planet Ocean 6000M Ultradeep, a commercial model with a water resistance of 6,000 meters, was ultimately released in 2021; it is now the halo model of Omega’s dive watch collection.
It manages its superlative water resistance as beautifully as the technically inferior Rolex Deepsea Sea-Dweller at 45.5mm and 18.1mm thick. The Ultradeep is a research experiment in exclusive Omega materials. O-MEGASTEEL case, black ceramic bezel, Liquidmetal diving scale, blue to black lacquered gradient dial, 18K white Gold hands and hour markers, and an O-MEGASTEEL proprietary adjustable dive band are all included.
The Ultradeep, which has a Master Chronometer Calibre-8912, is one of the most rugged wearable tool watches available today. It costs $12,000 for a bracelet and $11,700 for a rubber strap.
OMEGA SEAMASTER AQUA TERRA 150M (REF. 220.10.41.21.01.001)
The Aqua Terra, introduced in the twenty-first century, was Omega’s take on a less professional, more elegant, refined diving watch look. It replaces the diving bezel with a polished one for a more refined design and is coupled to a highly polished center flat link bracelet with a butterfly clasp.
With a water resistance of 150 meters, the Aqua Terra is currently regarded as a flexible everyday wearing in the Omega dive watches collection. The case is now symmetrical 41mm rather than 41.5mm, and the teak pattern on the dial is now horizontal, as intended by the designers, making it more identifiable to wooden decks of luxury sailboats.
The date window has also been repositioned to 6 o’clock, giving the dial more symmetry. The addition of the METAS Certified Chronometer Calibre-8900 with 60 hours of power reserve is the most significant update, making it a strong competitor as a sturdy, polished, uncompromised daily wearer. Steel bracelets are $5,900, rubber bracelets are $5,700, and leather bracelets are $5,400.
OMEGA CONSTELLATION GLOBEMASTER (REF. 130.30.39.21.02.001)
Omega chose to introduce the Constellation Globemaster with its first METAS Certified Master Chronometer, the Calibre-8900, in 2015. The new Globemaster would rewrite the technical script as a successor to the model released to commemorate Omega’s century of watchmaking and a history of housing top-tier movements.
The new marries vintage aesthetics of different eras to look like a modern, sophisticated everyday watch, with an elegant pie pan dial reminiscent of the 1952 model and a fully brushed modern-vintage sized 39mm diameter by 12.6mm thin case with a steel fluted bezel reminiscent of the Genta designed 70s models.
Not to be outdone, a relief medallion of the Geneva Observatory encircled by 8 stars is placed into the sapphire caseback. The dial is finished with a 5-pointed star, and the overall design makes extensive use of symbolism to tell the story of its triumphs within the Omega series. The Globemaster is a sophisticated, sporty, and attractive timepiece that costs $7,100 on a leather strap and $7,500 on a bracelet.